A Preventative Medication Program

A Preventative Medication Program That Works

Health or its absence is the key to all results, good or bad! Regardless of the quality of your pigeons, if you are unable to keep them healthy they are doomed to perennially poor results. I believe it is safe to say that the person who has pigeons of lesser quality but has learned to keep them close to the top of their health cycle will outperform a group of superior pigeons whose critical health is little understood and has, unfortunately, been allowed to lapse.
Though this definitely is true, most fanciers haven't a clue as to what does or does not constitute good health. Good health in a racing pigeon is a 365-day activity. The old adage is in fact true: "You only get out what you put in!"
Most fanciers get excited prior to racing old and young birds. Once this is over, the birds take a back seat until next spring. Ah, yes, there is always next year! Hope springs eternal… or does it?
Well, in fact it doesn't! Unless these fanciers have a massive overhaul of their attitudes, they do not have any chance at all of ever improving. Pigeon keeping (all bird keeping, no, the keeping of all living animals) is a hands-on activity. You learn by doing, first and foremost. You also learn by listening, by reading, and by observing; but I guarantee that you never learn by talking, and harping, and pontificating. You know the guys I mean! They let you know that they have forgotten more than you will ever know. Well, a sieve has really never been my idea of the perfect repository of the world's knowledge on racing pigeons! My partner, Jim McLean, always states that unfortunately, "You become what you are around." How can such a simple statement be so profound! Here is a very simple rule to live by: If you cannot say something good, bite your tongue and refrain from saying anything at all!
Our topsy-turvy world has always gotten things confused and it's no different in our own pigeon sport. We always assume that those who do the best also know the most and can teach the rest. This is rarely the case. In the real world, the great coach or teacher is usually the man or woman who could not physically achieve perfection, but who in turn strove to learn all they could so that they could pass it on to all those who did have the ability and could benefit from their own efforts.
In the past I have assisted many fanciers to achieve better results than had, for them, hitherto been the case. Very few ever acknowledge where the info originated, and like the sieve, they have a tendency to lose what it is that they are supposed to hold.
They Must Be Kept Clean
First and foremost your birds must be kept clean. Scrape the loft at least once per day and if you can, twice. The loft must be dry. It must be free of vermin, all vermin. If you can smell mouse, you have already lost! The loft should house less birds, never more. The loft should be adequately ventilated. The water should be changed ever day. Feed should never be present after the birds have eaten. Adequate quantities of minerals, grit, oyster shell, salt, etc. should always be present.
Stop Exchanging Birds
Health cannot be achieved if you are constantly exchanging pigeons with all and sundry. Once you have a colony of birds, work with them and avoid the temptation of always bringing in other birds. The constant exchange of birds is a sure-fire way to insure disaster. Remember that everyone thinks their birds and management are excellent, but the reality is that they have not got a clue. In most cases, the greater the pomposity, the less the ability. Actually, in most cases it's an inverse proportion!
Bio-security is a Must!
Keep visitors out of your lofts. Who knows where they have been and what they will expose your birds to? As simple as these concepts are, they are in fact the key to any bio-security system.
It really is hilarious to imagine that the average chicken farmer (either layer or grower) goes to a greater extent to protect his flock from contamination than most racing pigeon fanciers do!
Pretty easy concepts, don't you think? Keep them clean, keep them fed and watered, keep them free of contaminates, do not trade birds, keep your colony isolated as much as possible, keep visitors out of your lofts. You are 90% of the way to success.
Drug Versus Antibiotic
Oh, let's not forget that we should also understand the difference between a drug and an antibiotic. Yes, yes, I can already hear the smart remarks. Well, an antibiotic is by most considered a drug, but a drug is not necessarily an antibiotic! An antibiotic works by suppressing the immune system, a drug per se does not affect the immune system at all. So you see there is a real difference. There are hundreds of fanciers misusing antibiotics like Baytril. They attempt to use this 3rd generation antibiotic as a performance enhancer. That is, you use the product, it suppresses the immune system, then as the birds come off it there is a slingshot effect as the immune system seems to go beyond the norm, and bingo, super health. Or is it? No, actually a sure-fire ticket to disaster! Do not use these mega antibiotics unless you have done adequate testing with your avian vet! In most cases less extreme older antibiotics will more than serve your pigeons' health needs.
Keep Canker and Cocci Under Control
Generally speaking, you need to keep canker and cocci under control. You will find that by treating your birds every 6–8 weeks throughout the year (you need not worry if the parents are pumping youngsters as it will in no way harm them), neither of these two conditions will ever be of concern again. Ridzol will take care of the canker and Amperol will more than suffice for cocci. These two products can be safely used together. The dosage is 1/2 teaspoon of Ridzol plus 12.55 cc of Amperol per gallon of water. You would use these together for 3–5 days depending on the original count. Remember that both of these organisms are always present in the pigeon. The point is not to eradicate but only to keep at a manageable level that does not adversely effect performance. Remember neither of these drugs are antibiotics.
Internal and external parasites can easily be controlled with Ivomec. Three drops down the throat and no more problems with either.
Sixty days prior to races you can treat the entire race team with Amoxicillin capsules, dosage 5–8 500 mg capsules per gallon of water for a full ten days. The change in the birds is exceptional. This is an especially good idea if you are handling a large number of out-of-area birds for some race or another. Yes, this is the same antibiotic that your children often take.
You will find that once the races begin that most really competent flyers treat their birds every week during the races. They treat on a 3–4 week rotational basis as follows.
Week One
Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday after the race treat for canker and cocci.
Week Two
After the race treat Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday for E. coli.
Week Three
After the race Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday treat for respiratory. As regards respiratory you can use Doxin-WO or any combination of Doxycycline plus. You can use Doxycycline at the dosage of 1500 mg per gallon and Tylan at a dosage of 3000 mg per gallon.
Next Race
Begin again as in week one. You will continue this program for the 8–10 weeks of both your old and young bird programs.
There are a thousand other things that you can do including the use of DMG 2000, Carniplex,, Red Cell, wheat grass, citric acid, etc.
365 Days of the Year!
The reality is if you can keep canker and cocci under control 365 days per year. Keep the birds clean and dry and treat as directed during the races, and you will improve considerably your performance (regardless of the quality or lack of same) of your birds. Give it a try. You will notice the difference immediately.

What does a fancier need to know about canker?

Canker is also called Trichomoniasis and is the most common of pigeon diseases. It is caused by a microscopic protozoan which is flagellated, therefore mobile. It can be transmitted from one bird to another, usually through the water, and parent birds can infect their young through feeding.

Symptoms in infected birds are a definite reduction in activity, ruffled feathers, loss of weight, increased water intake and diarrhea. Cheesy yellowish deposits can often be observed in the mouth or throat. In advanced stages, a stringy mucous and putrid odor can be detected in the mouth. Young birds are most susceptible.

To prevent canker, control stress, maintain regular feed and watering schedules, sanitize drinkers regularly, isolate and observe any newly acquired bird for several weeks, and administer an anti-canker drug on a regular basis throughout the year. Veterinary recommendations vary from once every three months to once a month. This will depend upon incidence and susceptibility in your own flock.



What should a fancier know about Coccidiosis?

Coccidiosis is a highly infectious and very common disease caused by a protozoan that infects the intestines of our birds. It is usually present to some degree in all pigeons, but most adult birds have developed enough immunity to the disease to remain healthy. Young pigeons are most often infected, or birds that have been subjected to severe stress (i.e., racing, showing, lack of feed and water, or relocation). Adult birds may become infected from unclean water or from being in contact with moist droppings.

Symptoms of Coccidiosis include little or no desire to eat or drink. Pigeons with Coccidiosis will remain puffed up on perches, and they lack any desire to move, often closing their eyes. Droppings are usually very loose, greenish in color, and may become very watery. Weight loss is another symptom, and death can occur in young birds.

To prevent Coccidiosis, keep the loft dry and sanitary. Do not allow feed to come into contact with droppings, and regularly disinfect drinkers. Do not allow birds to drink from gutters or mud puddles, and keep the feed and water free from contact with rodents. Always isolate new birds for several weeks, since they are a primary target for the spread of Coccidiosis. Birds returning from a race should be given a preventative treatment shortly after their return, especially if out overnight. Race baskets should be disinfected weekly.



What should a fancier know about E. Coli?

E. Coli, also called Collibacillosis, is now thought to be more prevalent in pigeons than once suspected. E. Coli is caused by gram negative bacteria which can invade the loft through infected dust particles, in rodent droppings, and through infected pigeon droppings coming contact with eggs in the nest. Infected adult pigeons will emit the bacteria through their droppings, so that E. Coli can be spread quite readily throughout a pigeon loft.

Symptoms of E. Coli are diverse, because the E. Coli bacteria can manifest themselves in any part of the pigeon’s body. Most often, young will die in the nest. Adult birds will become listless and lose weight. Their droppings will become loose, mucousy, and greenish-yellow in appearance. Sometimes the droppings will have a foul odor. Occasionally, some birds may have nasal discharges and respiratory problems associated with this disease.

To prevent E. Coli, maintain good loft hygiene and keep rodents away from feed and water. Keeping dust and ammonia levels down will also help to control any outbreaks.




What should a fancier know about one-eyed colds?

One-eyed colds are usually associated with a peck in the eye or some other type of physical injury affecting the eye. They are also often confused with the onset of mycoplasmosis.

The symptom of a one-eyed cold most commonly noticed is a watery or mucousy discharge in only one eye. But occasionally both eyes will have a watery appearance. Sometimes one eye can become completely shut depending upon the degree of infection.

To prevent one-eyed colds, maintain proper ventilation and do not allow overcrowded conditions. Keeping dust levels in the loft to a minimum is considered good loft hygiene, because many types of infectious bacteria are carried by dust particles.
What should a fancier know about Paratyphoid?

Paratyphoid is also called Salmonellosis. It’s a common and widespread disease caused by a gram-negative bacterium which is flagellated and, therefore, mobile. It can be brought into a loft through introduction of infected pigeons, by rodents, through inhalation of infected dust, on the soles of fancier’s shoes, by roaches, or through contact with wild pigeons. Often, and adult bird that has overcome the disease remains a carrier and continues to emit infected droppings.

Symptoms of Paratyphoid are varied, because Salmonella flagellates can be found throughout the body in severely infected birds. Most adult birds will show rapid weight loss, along with somewhat loose, greenish droppings. Some birds may develop swelling in the leg joints or feet, or they may develop wing boils. Other birds may have the "twisted neck" syndrome commonly associated with PMV. Baby birds will often die in the nest before the second week after hatching and may show labored breathing. Another symptom is young dying in the egg.

To prevent Paratyphoid, maintaining loft hygiene is critical, since salmonella flagellates can live in the droppings of pigeons for some time. Regular cleaning and disinfecting of lofts, feeders, and drinkers are imperative. Minimizing contact with rodents, roaches, and wild birds is as important as quarantining newly acquired birds. Maintaining an acid pH level below 4.0 in the loft is also helpful in keeping Paratyphoid under control. Several veterinarians have recommended the use of Nolvasan at one teaspoon per gallon of water regularly to help maintain an acidic environment in the droppings. Regular use of the Salmonella vaccine has proven to be especially effective.

What should a fancier know about Pigeon Pox?

Pigeon Pox is caused by a virus, which is generally carried by mosquitoes and other biting insects. When a non-resistant pigeon is bitten by a carrier parasite, the virus enters the bloodstream of the bird. Within five to seven days, small whitish wart-like lesions appear on the head, feet, legs, and beak areas. These deposits can grow to become large yellowish bumps that, if removed, may ooze blood. In time, these lesions will dry and fall off, so I advise fanciers to leave them alone.

To prevent Pigeon Pox, use the vaccine regularly. No other measure is successful, although controlling the mosquito and fly populations in and around the loft may be helpful. The only way to prevent Pigeon Pox is to vaccinate. Pigeon Pox is highly contagious and there are regular outbreaks throughout the UK.



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What should a fancier know about respiratory infections like Mycoplasmosis and Ornithosis?

These diseases all fall into the infectious bacterial category. Coryza is actually the descriptive term used to identify the thick mucousy discharges usually associated with both Mycoplasmosis Catarrh and Ornithosis. The bacteria (termed Chlamydia) in the case of Ornithosis) lodge in the upper respiratory tract and can be extremely hard to eradicate. Often, infected birds never completely recover. Although their external symptoms may disappear, they can remain carriers for life.

The classic symptoms of respiratory infections include mucous in the throat, open beak, and heavy breathing, rasping or gurgling while breathing. Another symptom is a watery discharge from the eyes, sometimes associated with swelling in the eye area. Other symptoms include discharge from the nasal area, and occasionally air sac swelling or crop swelling as torn air sacs trap air under the skin.

As is usually the case with pigeons, other diseases can quickly manifest themselves when birds are in distress, so other symptoms can occur, such as loose greenish droppings and loss of weight. Most often the only noticeable difference in our birds will be their unwillingness to fly, or their complete failure in the racing events.

Respiratory infections are the most damning to the racing fancier, because many pigeon populations are carriers of the disease in one form or another, and symptoms are sometimes hard to identify. But race results will definitely be diminished. To prevent and control respiratory infections, maintain adequate ventilation, without drafts, in the loft. Keep dust and ammonia levels low, which means not allowing droppings to accumulate. Control dampness and overcrowding. It’s also wise to limit contact with wild birds, since tests have indicated in some areas that as much as 70% of the wild pigeon population is either carrying or is infected with a respiratory disease.

Because sporadic treatment at inadequate levels can cause rapid resistance, it is not wise to treat without effective drugs for the proper duration. Proper quarantining of new birds is a must.

What should a fancier know about Sour Crop?

Sour Crop is also called Candida, or Thrush. It is a very common disease, caused by a fungal infection of the digestive tract. It’s often associated with excessive use of antibiotics.

Symptoms of Sour Crop include listlessness, loss of appetite, weight loss, a water-filled crop, and frequent vomiting. The vomit often has a very putrid odor. Sometimes in lesser cases, thrush will show itself as just small whitish spots in the throat, which can cause confusion with Canker. Another symptom, not often noticed, is feather pulling in adult birds.

To prevent Sour Crop, avoid overcrowding, maintain a sanitary loft, and do not medicate indiscriminately, especially with antibiotics.


What should a fancier know about worm diseases?

The most common worms found in pigeons today are roundworms, hair worms, stomach wall worms, gapeworms, stronglylids, and tapeworms.

Symptoms of worm disease vary with the type of infestation. It is conceivable for pigeons to live with slight infestations with no ill effects. Severe infestations generally cause droopiness, loss of weight, and some diarrhea. Gapeworms can cause breathing problems. The best way to determine if a worm problem exists is to have the droppings checked.

To prevent worm diseases, keep a clean, sanitary loft. A preventative worming program in which all birds are wormed at least twice a year is advisable for this reason. Racing pigeons often mingle with many hundreds of other birds, and a racer can become infested through ingestion of worm eggs from the basket or through contact with stray pigeons.


What should a fancier know about external parasites?

The most common external parasites that pester our birds are feather lice, red mites, pigeon flies, and mosquitoes. Since parasites like these can occur in almost any climate they must be accounted for when planning a loft strategy. Feather lice are the least harmful of all the pests that attack our birds, because the damage they do is primarily associated with the feathers. They can, however, create serious problems within the feathers, often chewing holes into the flights or causing other types of visible damage, which can affect a show, or racing pigeon’s performance.

The common red mite can be a real problem in some lofts if it becomes established. It commonly hides somewhere in the loft during the day and at night come out from its hiding place to bite and feed on the blood of our birds. Other than being a nuisance and not allowing the flock to rest properly, they can help to spread an assortment of diseases.

The pigeon fly is probably the most dangerous parasite that can attack our birds. It lives most of its life on our pigeons, leaving only to lay its eggs somewhere in the loft. Pigeon flies bite our birds often, and besides causing considerable discomfort, they can be a major source of pigeon malaria.

Mosquitoes would have to be considered the next worst parasite to prey on our pigeons, simply because they are located in almost all climates. Mosquitoes are the most common carrier of the pigeon pox virus.

There are numerous precautions we can take within our lofts to help control external parasites. In the case of lice, pigeon flies, and even mites, we can control their numbers by quarantining new birds, and dipping or dusting our birds with pesticides. By keeping our lofts clean, we can do much in not giving the mites and flies places to hide their eggs.



Why are vitamins, minerals, herbal teas, and elixirs important to the pigeons?

Many fanciers overlook the importance of supplementing the diet of performance birds with these products, but the truth is, they may be the most important thing that a fancier can give to his pigeons, providing they are already in good health.

Supplements such as these, if given prudently, can add to a bird’s performance in the races, in the shows, and also as a breeder. Since our birds are kept in an unnatural environment, and they cannot receive all of the necessary vitamins and trace elements or minerals that they need from grain alone, it is extremely important that proper and timely supplements be given. In Europe, supplements are an important part of the program, on a weekly basis, all year long, and their birds are almost always in shining health.




Why are electrolytes important to the pigeons?

Electrolytes, or mineral salts, such as potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, etc., help control the fluid balance in the organs and tissues by balancing the acid-base condition in our birds’ body fluids. Added electrolytes help shorten the recovery period after physical stress such as racing and feeding young.



What should a fancier know about minerals?

It has been proven that at least fifteen different minerals are necessary for our pigeons to maintain proper health. These include calcium, copper, chlorine, fluorine, iron, iodine, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, selenium, sulphur, and zinc. No pigeon grain gives all the necessary minerals for our pigeons to maintain peak health; therefore, it is essential to give mineral supplements. .



What do picking stones and grit blocks do for the pigeons?

Besides aiding digestion, these products provide an assortment of vitamins and minerals in block form. Most European lofts use these in one fashion or another, usually by crumbling part of a block into a bowl, or sometimes putting the entire block in front of the birds and letting them have what they want. My advice is to crumble a little bit into the grit bowl twice a week.



How should I vaccinate?

I’m often asked about vaccinating against several diseases at the same time. In my experience, some combinations work and others don’t.

It’s generally all right to vaccinate for PMV and Pox at the same time. Colombovac is a combination injection for PMV and Pox, and is done subcutaneously, or just below the skin of, the neck. Most vets prefer the loose skin of the neck as the site for this vaccination, and it must be done just below the skin. But the verdict isn’t completely in on the results of this combination vaccine.
PMV and Salmonella vaccinations can be done at the same time, using two different injection sites. Do not mix the vaccines. Salmonella vaccinations can be given, subcutaneously, or just below the skin, of the neck or groin.

About medications in general, I am not a great fan of the 3-in-1 or 4-in-1 combination medications. I don’t like mixing more than two medications at one time. Each medication is specially formulated for a specific disease and a specific dosage duration. Therefore, mixing these medications with varying dosages can be more harmful than good, in the long run. You can successfully mix several medications if you’re going to administer them immediately, and if you know the exact dosage and duration for proper treatment.

But generally I don’t like the "shotgun" approaches. What works best in the long run is medicating for a specific disease. That way, each medication can be administered in a specific way for a specific condition. In the long run, the "shotgun" approach could hurt your birds.


What do I need to know about pigeon diarrhea?

Sometimes pigeons develop diarrhea, not when they are actually , but after medication treatments. Their loose droppings are due to the chemical imbalance created by the loss of the lactobacillus bacteria or "friendly bacteria" which inhabit our pigeons’ guts and help the digestive process.



What do loose droppings indicate?

Loose droppings are a sure sign that something is off in the gut within the digestive system. The problems can be caused by viruses such as adenovirus, circo-virus, PMV, or pox. They can be caused by bacteria such as salmonella, e-coli, or even worm infestations. Over-medication can also place stress on a bird and cause loose droppings as can hard racing and hard training.

Good droppings should be firm, about the size of an acorn, have a brownish color, tipped in white. The color depends upon the feed that the bird is getting.

Loose droppings can be mushy, slimy, almost pure water, lime green, dark green, or yellow. Each color indicates a different condition

Adeno-coli-syndroom and Ornithose-complex
There are some serious diseases which threaten the pigeons health during the flight season especially the Adeno-coli syndrome and orthinose complex.
Adeno-coli syndrome
This syndrome contains two main disease-causing agents, the Adeno virus and the e.coli bacteria.
We are dealing here with a disease which predominantly attacts pigeons up to the age of one year.
The first distinctive marks are visible in particular stress situations for example the loading into the crates during the racing season. But also overcrowded lofts might lead to an outbreak of this disease.
The main symptoms are thirst, lack of appetite, vomiting and diarrhoea. The condition is getting worse and leads to strong loss of weight. The disease spreads over the loft rapidly.
Within 48 hours all pigeons might be infected. This so-called classic Adeno virus infection can be cured within one week on condition that no other infection is involved such as the e.coli infection. In such a case we are talking about the Adeno-coli syndrome.
The additional infection with e.coli bacteria leads the pigeons into a very bad state of condition. They are losing a lot of weight and the excretions are often green and strong smelling. In difficult cases the disease might be fatal.
In case of a serious liver damage caused by the infection the convalescence lasts very long. Flight performance and condition are not any longer satisfactory.
The classic Adeno virus infection causes a so-called catarrhal enteritis. The vrius attacks the intestinal cells and harms the intestinal walls. Because of this, protein reaches the intestinal contents and forms a perfect culture medium for bacteria such as e.coli.
As a result the damage of the intestinal walls might cause blood-poisoning which often leads to death.
If there are no such complications the pigeons will recover from the classic Adeno virus infection within one week.
But experience shows that there are great differences due to the seriousness of the symptoms.
Only in a few cases the pigeons recover without large damage within one week after infection with the Adeno virus.
The possibility that an additional e.coli infection is the reason for a worsening of the symptoms depends on the defence mechanism of the young pigeons. If the pigeons still have to deal with previous infections (jaundice, hexamitasis or ornithose) the symptoms will be more drastic.
Therefore the Adeno-coli syndrom can be described as a so-called "multi-factor disease" .
A weaken defence mechanism, stress, overcrowded lofts etc. have a great influence on the seriousness of the disease.
It is clearly that we have to concentrate on the maintenance of the natural defence mechanism of the young pigeons.
This diagnose is made due to the clinical symptoms of each age-group affected.
But still we have to take other diseases such as paramyxo virus infection, herpes, streptococci, hexamitiasis and salmonellosis into consideration.
We can be sure of the Adeno virus if we examine the liver cells and the intestinal mucous membrane.
Up to now there is no preventive vaccination possible to control this virus.
The Adeno virus of the pigeons belongs to another group than the Adeno virus which is used to control the EDS desease which appeared among chicken. This vaccine has been used several times for pigeons but due to our experience it shows no effect if only used once.
In Belgian publications it is said, that several vaccinations in turn have shown positive results, but we are not able to confrm this fact so far.
It is a known fact that there is no medicine available for such virus infections. Therefore we have to control first of all the secondary bacterial infections, the loft hygiene, the stress prevention and the improvement of the natural defence mechanism of the young pigeons.

Fight Against Secondary Bacterial Infections
The secondary infection of the Adeno-virus-coli complex is mainly caused by e.coli bacteria.This bacteria is present in almost 97% of all pigeon intestines and can be seen as a pemanent occupier which multipies rapidly in case of an Adeno virus infection. The poisonous substances transported by the bacteria are in case of infection able to pass the damaged intestinal walls and cause a blood-poisoning. At this stage most of the pigeons are beyond saving.
Therefore it is imprtant to defend the increase of the e.coli bacteria.
BAYTRIL (enrofloxacine) has shown quite good results but has a negative influence on the bone structure.
In some cases it is advisable to hamper the e.coli population with a health cure after stop taking the products.
But still regular prevention treatment is the best way and should be preferred to the use of antibiotic.


Garlic, The Natural Tonic
Pigeon fanciers in Europe have been using garlic for years and reporting excellent results. Many problems with our pigeons can actually be helped by using garlic in their diet on a regular basis. Many intestinal problems can be solved by giving our birds garlic, especially diarrhea or loose droppings.
To species of gram-negative bacteria (aurescens)(escherichia) and E-coil along with a few other gram negative bacteria are greatly reduced with the use of garlic. Garlic is also a great aid in reducing respiratory disease. Garlic has some antibacterial activity---about 1% of the activity of penicillin. It will kill a whole variety of bacteria and at least 60 different kinds of fungi and moulds.
When working with garlic it is important to keep in mind that the raw form is the ultimate. The principle ingredient is a compound called allicin, and must be crushed. If you don’t have a garlic press you can use pliers.
Fresh garlic cloves form the grocery store are best. Until research proves otherwise, the fresh cloves are preferred over powders and other solubles since processing destroys many of the active components. One of the important minerals found in Japanese garlic is selenium. Selenium combines with vitamin E is important in the regeneration of muscle tissue and overall general health. Selenium in lab animals has the remarkable capacity to rid laboratory rats of cancer, for example. If there is a wonder product around, it is probably garlic. Again, remember to crush the cloves and do not heat them

Pigeon paramyxovirus and pigeon circovirus
Judging from the articles and correspondence appearing in The British Homing World and The Racing Pigeon, the topic of paramyxovirus infection (and in particular the need to vaccinate against this disease) is of considerable interest and concern to fanciers. The topic is further complicated by the emergence in the past ten years of another virus affecting pigeons, namely circovirus. It may therefore be worth making a few comments about these diseases and the role of vaccination, based on some of the questions I have read or been asked.
Question. Why do we need to vaccinate our pigeons every year, when chickens only need one dose of vaccine to provide life-long immunity?
Fanciers sometimes compare the vaccination of pigeons in Great Britain against pigeon paramyxovirus 1 (PPMV-1), with the vaccination of chickens in Great Britain against Newcastle disease, also caused by paramyxovirus 1 (PMV-1). Pigeons receive a single dose of an inactivated (killed) vaccine by injection, with additional boosters on an annual basis. Chickens that are going to be retained as adults also receive an inactivated vaccine by injection, often around 16-18 weeks of age. Fanciers often think - why do chickens only need one dose that protects them for life, whereas pigeons need boosters every year? There are two parts to the answer. Firstly, “life-long protection” in adult chickens usually means to about 74 weeks of age, after which most commercial birds are culled. Hopefully our pigeons will live longer than that! Secondly, to achieve this protection to 74 weeks, the chickens must first be given at least two doses of a live vaccine against Newcastle disease (often in their water) before receiving the killed vaccine. If chickens only receive the live vaccines, the protection soon runs out. If chickens only receive the killed vaccine, the response to the vaccine is not as strong. The best results in chickens are achieved if they receive multiple doses of live vaccine followed by killed vaccine. And if the chickens lived as long as our pigeons, they would still need annual boosters.
Question. If young pigeons are vaccinated in June, for example, can they then be left until they are about 18 months and eventually vaccinated with the adults before pairing up?
The answer is no, for the reasons described above. It may work in chickens that have received live and killed vaccines, but not in pigeons only receiving the killed vaccine. Even if vaccinated in June, they will still need a booster within 12 months, and the most convenient time will be to vaccinate these birds when they are about 6 months of age, when the adults are being vaccinated. From that point of view, therefore, there is nothing to be gained by delaying the vaccination of young birds to June or July.
Question. Why do you recommend the early vaccination of young pigeons?
Most fanciers now know that the immune system of birds only works properly if the bird has a healthy bursa of Fabricius when young. The bursa of Fabricius is a small spherical organ found near the vent of the bird, in which white blood cells called B cells mature. These B cells are essential if the bird is to produce antibodies to fight off diseases, including antibodies formed as a result of vaccination. Unfortunately that most recent scourge of pigeons, pigeon circovirus, can severely damage the bursa, preventing the bird from producing protective antibodies and allowing in secondary diseases. It has been reported from several parts of the world, including Great Britain, North America and South Africa, that an early circovirus infection may predispose to pigeon paramyxovirus later in life. If the birds’ bursae have already been damaged by the time they are vaccinated against paramyxovirus, the birds cannot respond adequately to the vaccine, and if they are later exposed to paramyxovirus, they cannot produce the necessary antibodies and may go down with disease. That is why, in The Racing Pigeon in February 2001 and The British Homing World in March 2001, I suggested that young pigeons should be vaccinated at an early age eg three to five weeks, depending on the vaccine. The longer you leave it, the greater the chance that the birds will pick up circovirus first, and not respond well to their paramyxovirus vaccine.
Question. Why vaccinate the young birds? Don’t they get protection from their dams?
Young pigeons do get some protection from their dams, through the yolk of the egg (so-called maternal immunity). This can help prevent early infection, and is another good reason for vaccinating adults every year, 4 to 6 weeks before pairing up. The higher the level of antibody in the blood of the dam, the higher the level of antibody in the yolk of her eggs and in the chicks that hatch from the eggs. But these “maternally –derived antibodies” only last for about three weeks, after which time the bird is susceptible to disease again. Not the six months I have heard suggested! The young birds must then be actively vaccinated when the maternal immunity has worn off, to continue this protection. That is also part of the reason why you shouldn’t vaccinate before three weeks – the maternally-derived antibodies may interfere with the bird’s ability to respond to the vaccine.
Question. Should we let “natural immunity” protect our pigeons? Survival of the fittest?
Some people suggest we should let “natural immunity” protect our birds. Survival of the fittest? I hear and read the view that you never see feral pigeons with paramyxovirus because they have been allowed to develop “natural immunity”. Well maybe you don’t see feral pigeons with paramyxovirus, but I do! Regularly! Causing nervous signs, diarrhoea and death, the same as you see with racing pigeons. Even in large populations of birds, immunity to paramyxovirus rises and falls, with periodic outbreaks of disease in the population. The same could happen if you didn’t vaccinate your pigeons. I have heard it suggested that you shouldn’t vaccinate your young birds until July, to allow the birds to develop some “natural immunity” before you vaccinate. Such immunity could only be acquired if the young birds met paramyxovirus during the rearing stages and survived long enough to produce the necessary antibodies and cell-mediated immunity. In my opinion the young birds should be vaccinated sooner rather than later, before they have time to meet paramyxovirus or circovirus.
Question. What about stock birds and late-breds?
These birds should also be vaccinated against paramyxovirus. Having observed paramyxovirus in different pigeon lofts over many years, I can recall several outbreaks in which unvaccinated stock birds or late-breds were the first birds to be affected, with disease sometimes then spreading to other sections. You may not be legally required to vaccinate prisoner stock birds, but vaccinating them will safeguard these birds, the basis of your young birds of the future, and will also ensure their chicks hatch with good maternal immunity.
Question. Could vaccination against paramyxovirus be the cause of “young bird sickness”?
Despite all the positive aspects of vaccination, I agree that we should keep an open mind and at least consider possible adverse effects. A very occasional bird dies after vaccination, and sometimes abscesses develop at the site of vaccination. But there is definitely a feeling amongst pigeon fanciers that vaccination may in some way precipitate “young bird sickness”, possibly linked to circovirus infection. Such views should not be dismissed out of hand, but further investigated.

Feeding
• Food Quality
• Nutrition, vitamins and minerals
• Feeding to Win
• Food Recipes

Food Quality
First and foremost, the food must be of the best quality.
Good quality grain is a clean grain with low moisture content. Grains with high moisture and/or are dirty, dusty and unclean are more susceptible to fungus and bacterial germs and poisons than dry clean grain. The truth is that germs on and in the grains will affect the performance of your birds during breeding, moulting, showing and racing. The food used for racing pigeons must be fresh, clean and the highest quality.
The simple fact is that cheap food is never the best food.
The farmer receives more for the graded feed than for the weather affected (water, heat, etc) grain sold primarily as stock food. Some produce merchants buy this food for the pigeon fanciers to keep their prices down, but fail to understand that ungraded feed is susceptible to moulds and mould toxins that destroy the nutritional content of the feed. These moulds are a major health hazard, predisposing the race team to many illnesses. The poor quality grain simply fails to provide the required energy and nutrient needs of the competing bird. The result is poor performance and flock illness.
Nowadays, the grain merchants make a big effort to provide clean food, free of fungus, bacteria and toxins.
Most fanciers now understand that the quality of the feed does have a substantial effect on performance and they purchase "farm fresh" feed guaranteed free of moulds and mould toxins. Culture testing is the best method of checking the grain. Even if the food tested is not perfect then it can still be helped, by mixing mould inhibitors (PEP) with it. Many fanciers use mould inhibitors routinely in order to protect their mixes from the effects of moisture during storage.
The pigeon eats more poor quality food but less of the dry clean food. This in itself makes unclean food more expensive.
The feed must be stored correctly and protected from moisture and rodents.
The correct storage of your grain after purchase is necessary if you are to preserve its culture-free status. If you allow moisture to infiltrate your feed then mould and bacterial contamination will most likely ensue, thereby nullifying all of your best efforts to provide your birds with the very best food. If your grain is very dry and culture tests clear then it must be stored in an airtight drum and elevated off the ground. This will protect your grain from absorbing moisture from the surrounding air during times of high humidity (e.g. rain periods and with night time high humidity). Grain high in moisture is best mixed with a mould inhibitor (PEP). Then it is stored with an open lid to allow it to dry out in times of low humidity and sealed in times of high humidity. The fungal spores resident on moist grain is more likely to become activated when stored in the dark and without air circulation to help dry it out.

Nutrition, vitamins and minerals
There’s more to feeding than just grain and grit.
Nowadays, pigeon fanciers know that there’s more to feeding than just grain and grit. Certainly, grains are an excellent source of energy, protein, and fibre, but they are very low in the minerals, trace elements and vitamins required for the exertions of top racing and breeding robust youngsters.
For a long time, fanciers have used grit to provide the minerals in the diet of the racing and breeding pigeon, but only recently have they realised that shell grit does not contain all of the minerals and trace elements required for sustained racing and breeding success. Vitamins must also be added to the diet of the pigeon. The old timers understood this vitamin need from seeing the benefits of giving spinach and carrots to their birds. Today, most fanciers give vitamin supplements in the water or on the food.
The theory of nutrition for the pigeon is really quite easy to understand.
The fancier must give:
• Grain for energy, protein and fibre.
• Minerals grits, powdered minerals and trace elements.
• Vitamins are usually given with trace elements in the water.
• Extra energy, vitamins and protein can be given in the form of special oils on the food during the high energy times of racing and when the adults are feeding young.
Pigeons can survive on grain and grit alone, but they cannot reach the level of health required to withstand the pressures of racing or breeding. Eventually their health will fail under these extreme physical pressures. Good feeding will control most illnesses of pigeons. For example, there is a major increase in the minerals and trace elements required when the adult pigeons are feeding babies, but grit alone does not provide all of the necessary minerals and trace elements for continuing good health. Without mineral additives the end result is often egg laying problems, canker outbreaks and other illnesses. During racing there are increased needs for energy, protein and vitamins, as well as trace elements and minerals. The race team tires easy and is more susceptible to fatigue related respiratory and wet canker illnesses when extra vitamins and minerals are not provided.
The feed (grain) mixes do not provide enough vitamins and minerals for top performance. The fancier must select a feed mix that provides the energy and protein balance needed for the particular stage of the pigeon calendar. Breeding and moulting birds require a grain mix which is higher in protein, has a different essential amino acid balance than the pigeon in full training during the racing season. The feed mix requires at least six different grain types in the mix in order to get the best protein level and quality (i.e. balance of essential amino acids). The best quality of protein is seldom met and lysine (a very important amino acid for the pigeon) deficiencies are common in grain mixes with fewer than 4 grains. The protein quality of the grain mix can be improved by adding protein/amino acid supplements prior to feeding.
All grains are low in calcium (0.01- 0.20%) and sodium (20-600ppm). Phosphorous, copper, zinc, manganese, and selenium are also low in some grains. The vitamin concentrations in seeds are highly variable. Seeds do not contain vitamin A (corn provides carotenoids), or vitamin D. Vitamin E and vitamin K levels are low to undetectable. Among the B vitamins riboflavin, niacin, and pantothenic acid are often low and vitamin B12 is not present. This means that the vitamins, minerals and trace elements lacking in the grain must be given to the pigeons in some form or other. Many fanciers use spinach and shell grit, but this is still not enough to balance the nutritional requirements of the athletic pigeon. Nowadays most fanciers add vitamin and trace elements to the water once or twice a week and provide the minerals in powdered or block form ad lib.

Feeding to Win
During the racing season, the main function of food is to provide the fuel for flying. Our common aim is to provide the racing pigeon with the best fuel for race day. To do this consistently we must have a good understanding of the food itself. The following paragraphs will introduce you to the science (or theory) of feeding, but for racing success you must also become expert at the practice (or art) of feeding. Only practice and observation can teach you the art of feeding, but hopefully the methods of feeding described here can help you find the pathway to feeding success.
We can only begin the art of good feeding when both the quality of the food is guaranteed and the flock is healthy. A healthy bowel is required before we can test our feeding systems, because an unhealthy bowel fails to deliver the fuel of good grain to the pigeon’s body. Bowel diseases such as E. coli, coccidiosis, worms and wet canker all decrease the amount of nutrients entering the body.
By using the best quality grains and with a healthy race team, the fancier can now think about a racing mix appropriate for his particular family of birds and training methods. The mix chosen must provide a good balance of protein (amino acids) and for this to be achieved at least 8 different grains must be used. After this balance is achieved, the energy content of the mix becomes the most important part of successful feeding.
The feed system provides the race team with the correct energy levels for training and racing. The goal of feeding is to provide the training and racing pigeon with exactly enough (not too much and not too little) fuel (energy in the food) for sustained flight (loft exercise or racing). Of course, the fuel requirements of the training pigeon vary enormously from day to day. It is the constantly changing energy requirements of the competition pigeon that makes feeding such a challenge to even the best fanciers. The competition pigeon will not perform to its fitness level when the "energy balance" is incorrect. The "energy balance" must be assessed short term (daily) and long term (weekly) with fit flocks during the race season, because the fitness level will drop both when too much and too little energy is supplied. During young bird training special attention must be made to prevent depletion of the energy reserves in the liver and muscle.
Overfeeding relative to workload (positive energy balance) renders the race team less competitive because of excess baggage ("leady"). Excess energy is stored as fat with subsequent loss of buoyancy and fitness. It is well to remember that the excess energy of mixes which are too high in protein (legumes) relative to the work load will be stored as fat.
Underfeeding relative to workload (negative energy balance) renders the race team less competitive because of "depowering". Feed systems low in energy relative to the workload of the race team will result in the depletion of the energy reserves in the liver, fat and muscle.
The fancier can recognise a race team that is in a negative energy balance by the following signs:
• No wing flapping in the early morning or after feeding.
• Disinterest in leaving loft or toss basket, lower lid laziness etc.
• The race team in negative energy balance (inadequate energy intake relative to the workload) is susceptible to illness, especially "respiratory" diseases.
Buoyancy
Most fanciers understand the importance of buoyancy for success, but few understand the best way to achieve this in their race teams. Buoyancy is best achieved by supplying the flock with enough feed (a positive energy balance) to promote vigorous loft flying (or tossing) in order to maximise lean body mass (i.e. muscle) and minimise body fat. Instead many fanciers believe that the best path to buoyancy is to restrict caloric (energy) intake (feed less) in order to lose excess weight and thereby produce the buoyancy that we see with top form. However, buoyancy is not only weightlessness, but also power, and the buoyancy of fitness only comes when lean body mass is maximised. The restriction of calories in an effort to produce buoyancy in fact lowers the fitness level of the flock and renders it susceptible to illness. Severe caloric restriction will cause a loss of not only body fat but also lean body mass (muscle) with the accompanying loss of fitness and power.

Food Recipes
Standard Mix
This is the basic mix that may be fed to any type of pigeon.
Maple or dunn peas 20 parts Hard wheat 20 parts
Corn (maize) 10 parts Milo 20 parts
Barley 10 parts Safflower 5 parts
Millet* 3 parts Linseed* 2 parts
* Optional
Young Bird Recipe
Use only the best quality seed mix and additives. The best food and additives are a must for the developing youngster. This food must be clean, organic and nutritionally balanced, A good quality dry grit must be provided at all times. The "Young bird Mix" provides the young bird with the required energy, protein and amino acid balance necessary for optimal body development and renewal of quality flight feathers.
The following recipe is an example of a good European "Young bird Mix", which is ration fed and because of its high energy levels requires regular loft flying to prevent internal fat formation.
Maple or Dunn peas 20 parts Groats 6 parts Lupin* 2 parts
Hard wheat 15 parts Safflower 5 parts Millet* 2 parts
Corn (maize) 15 parts Canary* 2 parts Pellets* 2 parts
Milo 15 parts Chinese sprouts* 2 parts Rape* 2 parts
Barley 10 parts Linseed* 2 parts Vetch* 2 parts
* Optional
Moulting Recipe
The best food and additives are essential for a quick moult and the regrowth of quality new feathers. A quick moult indicates a healthy flock and a superior quality of feather reflects the correct feeding system. The best recipes provide the essential level and balance of amino acids needed for the formation of new feathers.
The following is a successful recipe of a "Moulting Mix" which is given ad lib. During the moult.
Maple or dunn peas 16 parts Groats 2 parts Lupin* 2 parts
Hard wheat 15 parts Safflower 5 parts Millet* 1 part
Popcorn 35 parts Canary* 0 parts Pellets* 0 parts
Milo 5 parts Chinese sprouts* 3 parts Rape* 1 part
Barley 10 parts Linseed* 2 parts Vetch* 3 parts
* Optional
Sprint Recipe
Maple or dunn peas 5 parts Groats 20 parts Lupin* 1 parts
Hard wheat 15 parts Safflower 5 parts Millet* 2 parts
Popcorn 15 parts Canary* 2 parts Pellets* 1 parts
Milo 10 parts Chinese sprouts* 1 parts Rape* 1 parts
Barley 20 parts Linseed* 1 parts Vetch* 1 parts
* Optional
Distance Recipe
With races longer than 5 hours the feeding system must change from a light "Sprint Mix" to a heavier "Distance Mix". Loft flying is not restricted as in the sprint season. The following is a good example of a distance mix, remembering that both the exercise and mix determine the buoyancy of the race bird.
Maple or dunn peas 15 parts Groats 10 parts Lupin* 2 parts
Hard wheat 15 parts Safflower 10 parts Millet* 2 parts
Popcorn 15 parts Canary* 2 parts Pellets* 1 parts
Milo 15 parts Chinese sprouts* 2 parts Rape* 1 part
Barley 7 parts Linseed* 1 parts Vetch* 2 parts
* Optional
Breeding Recipe
The "Breeding Mix" plus the additives provides the growing with every nutrient need for optimal body development and disease resistance. The following recipe is an example of an excellent "Breeding Mix", which is hopper fed.
Maple or dunn peas 29 parts Groats 5 parts Lupin* 4 parts
Hard wheat 15 parts Safflower 5 parts Millet* 2 parts
Popcorn 10 parts Canary* 2 parts Pellets* 1 parts
Milo 5 parts Chinese sprouts* 10 parts Rape* 1 parts
Barley 0 parts Linseed* 1 parts Vetch* 10 parts
* Optional
.

Great posts VALIANT, your obviously a mine of information, keep em coming ;)

Good posting big boy :)

good reading valliant its nice to be reminded even though i new this before

Excellent post. Thanks for taking the time to put all this info up for us in a way that is easy to read and understand. I will be back for more. It's guys like yourself that encourages others to look beyond the feathers. Now put yer feet up for a well deserved rest :D